. and in the SHOPS
lAnn Kavanaghl HERE are two minutes in the 1 year that prod the most lethI argic dress lizard to electrici hare action—The first. that disillusioning minute in the spring 'when the hibernating sun wakes up and floodlights our musty, dusty clothes, reducing well-dresscd women to a-rag-a-bone-a-hank-of-hair caricatures. We sally forth to the dressshops and—casting-off sackcloth and ashes—copycat the spring clothes of trees and flowers.
There is that other action-making moment in the autumn when the sun is getting sleepy, gets up later. and so do we before turning on with diminished celerity the bath cold-water tap. It is in that nip-in-the-air time we get an "in the cauld blast on yonder moor' complex, an illusion of only a wisp of muslin between us and the weather, and a wornaufs fancy turns to thoughts of logs, screens. thick curtains and tweedy clothes.
YESTERDAY -before autumn hes really got its teeth into things-I went in search oe tweeds, and found them where Sellridge rather Colossus-like be strides Oxford Street. " There was a time." said Mrs. Watts, the chronicler of tweed history, " when, thinking of tweeds, one thoineht: brown-beige, beige-brown; just like that!" But not to-day, my dears, not to-day. There has been a revolution in tweed history as in other things. and tweeds have departed from the mud to treacle, sand to mustard, tradition of their forebears, and have gone all gay and irresponsible. Not that you can walk over the moors looking like a jazz rainbow and frightening the birds. Nothing so primitive. '1 he colour is there, but you've got to look for it.
• And in proof there was a green suit that looked -well, green, until the tweed specialist made you use your eyes. Then you realised that it was chock-full of colour as any mountain stream. There were greys, browns, stones, ereens, and scarlet in its make-up, which gave it its allover " bloom." This suit had a collar of
hunter green velvet to its three-quarter . length swing coat. 1 his had, too, an in verted " V " yoke at the back to support the "swing"; big simulated patch pockets so that you couldn't make bulges if you tried putting this and that in them. Just so as to make things easy for you-no endless hunting for the blouse justethere was a matching blouse tailored and fitting high up to the neck in the hunter green velvet.
Velvet blouses are in. so are up-to-thechin necklines. Evening dresses may still be draughty in places. but blouses arc this year definitely kind and comfortingscreening collar-bones and even necks from wintry winds-and nearly all in substantial stuffs, but so cleverly cut that they do not put bulges where l'nes ought to be. They give a much smarter effect with coats than the everyday blouse, but they are NOT the kind of thine you can run up yourself.
THERE was an outfit with a fuschia
complex-a three-piece, its skirt and hip length loose coat of wine-bright tweed; its coat lining and big, rather exhibitionist revers of that exhilarating purple that high ecclesiastics and asters wear. That suit would look circus on the wrong, romance on the right, woman.
So, mousey sisters, leave it alone. It would only bite you.
I saw a little suit that at 3+ guineas should have looked "poor relation." But not it! Thoroughly self-confident and perky it was. Its short trim coat suggested a cardigan. but had collars and revers.
Its back was gathered into a belt, leaving sides and front free. The material was a largish broken check. in tangerine mat and grey-old man's beard. not that dull clerical grey. Its ç tails. too. were good. buttons, lining, and skilled cut as well.
A big company of Scottish tweed suqs only cost 71, guineas each. One very plea sant outfit was in a small warm brown check with lines that caressed rather than covered you. A clever touch was the revers made of single material, looking normal. but giving more than normal flatness.
AGIFT to the wench that sallies out, wet or fine, to earn bread and butter, was a three-piece at only 51 anieeas. This had a complete suit—coat and skirt– and then a rooms top coat. The coat coald be worn with other things. The material was in a good-weight but slender-fitting diagonal tweed in sapphire blue and off-white, with tiny flecks of pillar-box red. Jubilee colour-scheme rather. but restrained.
Eleven-and-a-half guineas was the moderate cost of a very distinctive ensemble in rescda green tweed with a plain flannel blouse in the same shade. That doesn't sound too exciting, but you just see it.
You remember the knitwear that moulded itself to you just too affectionately, and that after a few weeks-wear developed a permanent " sag." Well. there's been a revolution there, too, and to-day's knitwear behaves better. It stays put, and it looks like what it isn't. Somc brown and white wool took a zigzag path and. before you knew where you were, looked like the most honest-to-goodness diagonal Cumberland tweed. Yesterday a suit like this had a plain brown scarf and belt. It looked like tweed. would keep its figure like tweed, but was still knitwearlight. warm and ultra-smart.
A good sports suit was in a brown and white check. The blouse. cut on a golfer's jerkin lines. was in brown fine woollen with a leather applique on its pocket of a very antlered beast's head. A scarf of the same brown stuff, lined with turquoise. went into a "V" collar at the back and into a loose vagabondish tie-up at the front.
Two other suits pleased me, both very trim costumes. The first. in a fine tweed in that fantastic green that bad housewives let develop on their copper possessions, had four cherry velvet buttons and a cherry velvet scarf. The other was mainly chianti red with scallops anywhere they would go--roll collar, cuffs, blouse topin unpeeled beetroot red. At coat waist and blouse top there were gold laces with enormous gold tangs. Very gay and gallant.